THE VIEW'S THE THING
Griffin House Inn
Shirley-Anne Owden
San Francisco Chronicle
"96 Hours" Entertainment Magazine
Thursday, October 19, 2006
It seems only fitting that a town with two names -- Elk, also known as Greenwood -- would have an inn with two kinds of accommodations. Griffin House Inn got its start in the 1890s when the main house, now a pub, was built as the doctor's office for a logging operation. Cottages were added in the '20s and '30s. Little changed until this year's renovation. Guests now have a choice between modern and old-fashioned, pot-bellied stove versus gas flame heater. Outside, however, the spectacular ocean view hasn't changed a whit.
 Comfort zone
We stayed in the first cottage to be updated, Kestrel, named for the birds of prey that soar over its private wooden deck. It's one of three ocean-front cottages with killer views of massive Wharf and Casket rocks, where timber was once loaded onto ships. The room is small, but functional, with two comfortable easy chairs, a chest of drawers, a queen-size bed and polished wood flooring. Coziness is enhanced with a hefty down comforter on the bed, a gas flame heater, recessed lighting in the ceiling and bedside reading lights with dimmer switches.
Bath and beyond
The small bathroom has a wood-rimmed pedestal sink, glassed-in shower and no place to put your shaving kit or cosmetic bag -- we improvised by setting up one of several wooden folding trays in the room. Toiletries: one small Dial soap and one shampoo. However, plenty of fluffy white towels and two terry-lined robes are provided.
 Grounds for approval
Fragrant star jasmine and old-fashioned roses tumble over the white picket fence surrounding the pub and inn office, and there's a small vegetable garden. Fresh flowers from the tidy grounds greet visitors in their rooms.
Geared up
Elk has no cell phone service, so it really is a good place to get away from it all. Rooms have no phones, no TV, no radio, no mini bar, no refrigerator. Wi-Fi access was promised, but we couldn't connect on our visit. The innkeepers are generous with the use of their office phone, however.
In the vicinity
Greenwood State Beach, a large, sandy expanse, is reached by a gentle downhill dirt path. For the adventurous, an outfit called Force 10 will take visitors out ocean kayaking from here. Horseback riding through a redwood forest is offered at nearby Ross Ranch. A museum housed in the old Elk post office tells the town's logging history and explains the mystery of the "town with two names." For those with a hankering for more shops, restaurants and galleries, Mendocino is a half-hour drive north.
 Good to know
Breakfast arrives at your door hot and delicious every morning. We had scrambled eggs and sausages one day, French toast another and a cheesy egg quiche with bacon another. The adjacent Bridget Dolan's Pub offers good casual dining, but it's closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and there are only a few other restaurants in town. A split of white wine made nearby in the Anderson Valley comes with the room.
Highs and lows
The fresh sea air, sea lions barking in the distance, bird-watching and even seasonal whale watching make this place a haven for nature lovers. Nature can get too close, however, as we found late one night when noisy raccoons stole some fruit left on the balcony to chill. The masked thieves cleverly unzipped the insulated bag to get at their prize.
5910 S. Highway 1, Elk (163 miles north of SFO). (707) 877-3422, www.griffinhouseinn.com. Seven cottages, three ocean-front, four garden. Winter rates, now through June 19, ranging from $118 to $198 weeknights to $148 to $238 weekends, including full breakfast. All cottages wheelchair accessible.
Shirley-Anne Owden, 96hours@sfchronicle.com
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© The Griffin House Inn and Bridget Dolan's Pub
5910 S. Highway One, P.O. Box 190, Elk, California 95432
E-Mail: griffinn@mcn.org Technical Comments:
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(707) 877-3422
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